Tribes and Vibes of South Sudan

Your government probably issues a travel warning. Leave the country as soon as you can. In terms of the Human Development Index (HDI), South Sudan is ranked at the bottom, that is no. 193 of 193 countries ranked. It has to cope with a civil war, so not all regions are safe.  Yet I had a marvelous time in this country,  being one of a few travel addicts who booked a group tour.

If you have all the documents ready that are required- including an invitation - obtaining a visa is straightforward, you do that online, and you will be set back by 116 USD. Most of us flew in from Addis Abeba. Usual procedure at Juba airport, our guides were waiting outside. As for their currency, the South Sudanese Pound is very weak, so when you change 100 EUR, you will have wades of cash in your hand.

Mundari tribe. They love their cattle

Nothing to complain about our hotel in Juba - it had of course aircon (which you badly need), and a restaurant. And the usual security, so you feel safe. WiFi granted. And if you buy an eSim, most of the time in the countryside you will be connected to the world.

Waiting for take off to Kapoeta. Every seat was occupied, and the cargo blocked the aisle.

So, what makes us travel to South Sudan, at the hand of all the warnings?  It looks like the unspoiled Africa, visiting tribes that seemingly live in the past - ok, mobile phones have arrived even at remote villages.

Welcome dance. Note the tattoos at her back

From Juba, we took a small aircraft to Kapoeta, Unscheduled, no flight number. And it was loaded to the full with cargo, even between our seats. We arrived safely, were taken to the best hotel in Kapoeta, even having WiFi (kudos to Starlink).

We were always welcome. Because at the end of each visit of a tribe, they got gifts, which was distributed by the chief to every family. Usually food, like cooking oil. Shops are miles away.

And from Kapoeta - to the East of Juba - our overland journey back to Juba commenced. As there is no real road (I.e. no asphalted road), each 4WD Toyota took 3 travelers, plus driver. We had 2 guides - young ladies - and as there are no hotels, let alone restaurants, we slept in tents. And had a cook which provided us with excellent food, all the time. And a big Toyota Hilux with all the camping equipment.

Sleeping in such tents. Was even comfortable (apart from the heat...)

Once we had to wait for many hours at a camp. The local warlord had to give his ok that we could continue, but wasn’t yet around. I didn’t dare to make fotos, as he came with his entourage of heavily armed soldiers, holding a long speech in his local language, probably more to impress his underlings of his importance than to intimidate us. Eventually we could continue, arriving at our destination at night.

In a village

Another village, another show.

The Mundari wash their hair with the pee of a cow. So, whenever a cow pees, a Mundari rushes to get a shower. I was told that would keep the insects away...

One of the most bizarre fotos I ever made: this little boy gives the cow a blow job. Whenever a cow has a miscarriage, it will no longer give birth. So this treatment is meant to heal the cow from its sorrow. And gives birth again.

Last day in Juba: Farewell dinner by the White Nile